Traffic in Kampala

Kampala is a city of approximately 1.6 million people and it seems that there are very few roads which pass through this city.  As such, the traffic here is horrendous.  The last time I sat in traffic like this I was approaching Los Angeles from the Pacific Coast Highway.  However, on that occasion we were on a major freeway and the traffic consisted solely of motorized vehicles all headed in the same direction.  When one enters Kampala one must be alert to the movements of cars, trucks, taxis (actually mini-vans that carry about 15 people), boda bodas (small motorcycles), bicycles, pedestrians, even livestock!  I observed only one set of traffic lights and they were not followed.  Each time we went through this major intersection it seemed that it was on a red light.  During the busiest times of day traffic police direct traffic and one can sit and wait for 20 minutes or more.  At other times, merging into streams of traffic takes an aggressive driving strategy and nerves of steel!  If I were to try and drive there I would not get past the first intersection.  Despite this daily mayhem we only observed three accidents.  The first was a truck that had overturned and the other two were boda boda collisions.  The first seemed minor and the bikes were simply picked up and the riders continued on their way.  The second however, involved a collision with a pedestrian and was quite upsetting to watch.  The woman who was hit picked herself up and walked off the road  to collapse on the side.  Police came before we left the scene but it was speculated that the woman likely could not afford to go to the hospital.  Here are some pictures of typical forms of transportation and I have also uploaded a youtube clip to give you a sense of what it feels like to be in traffic in Kampala.  It is described as "light traffic" and I agree.  We drove in much worse!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWMehc_OaDc

One of many pedestrians.  Many women carry their loads on their heads.  What balance!

Imagine transporting this load on your bike!

Trucks, taxis and boda bodas, oh my!

For All the Duke Fans!

Sign on the way into Kampala.

Closer still!

Liquid gold..... go Duke!!!!

On one of our first drives through Kampala I spotted this sign for "Duke" water.  Those who know me well know that my family and I are avid Duke Basketball fans.  For anyone who doesn't know me, I should explain that Duke is a private U.S. University with a great college b-ball program.  One of my nieces Marion, went to Duke, and she has converted most of us over the years.  So when I spotted this sign it brought a big smile to my face and prompted me to make several attempts to get a photo.  I am sure that Baker, our driver, thought I was a bit crazy but one day I spotted the sign in time, traffic was light, and Baker was able to slow sufficiently for me to get these shots.  Later, when we visited one of the Catholic High Schools, they provided the team with a box of Duke water.  I must say it tastes rather fine!  Oh, by the way, for all of you b-ball fans, don't miss the big Duke/UNC game this Saturday night.  Go Duke!  Go Blue Devils!!!

Nile River Pictures!

On the first day in Uganda you will recall that some of the team went white water rafting.  We purchased some pictures which could be downloaded online but with the internet problems we experienced I was unable to post them at the time.  Now that I am at home, with my fast internet speed, I can upload them for you.  Here they are, as promised!

Preparing for the trip.  Left to right:  Erin While, Faye White,  Josh, Alison Tallman, Nancy Grew, Debra Lefebvre, Sarah Lefebvre, Wayne White.

Our first set of rapids!

Still afloat!

Whoops, over we go!  Don't worry there were lots of rescue kayaks nearby!

After lunch we switched to a smaller boat.  The name "Extreme" tells you a lot!  At this point we were surfing.  We rocked back in forth in the swells until this moment when we eventually overturned.  It was so much fun we circled back for a second turn.

One more upset!  It was a thrilling ride!

Flights home: All is well!!

We were picked up from the Lake View Hotel at 6:00 p.m. for the drive to Entebbe airport.  It was my last drive with Baker and I will miss his competent skills.  I know without a fact that I could not drive in Uganda and when I go back I hope he will drive for me again.  Sarah also escorted us and we all hugged farewell.  Sarah is an amazing person and I cannot thank her enough for her help and support.  Our flight left on time and was uneventful.  We had a long layover in Amsterdam.  My first stop was Starbucks.  I missed Starbucks and Tim's in Uganda but did have several good cups of African coffee at some local restaurants.  The White's left first, then Charlotte and Margot and finally Joanne and I lined up for our flight to Toronto.  We were joined by Sarah and Debra who had just flown into Amsterdam from London for the same flight home.  In Toronto we split up once again and I was excited to run into the arms of my family.  The journey has ended.  We are home.  I still have some good stories and pictures to share and I will continue to update my blog for a few more days with some of the observations and lessons learned in Africa.

To my frequent followers, I say thank you for taking this journey with me.  I hope you enjoyed reading the blog entries as much as I did creating them.   Thank you for your comments.  Connecting to home made the work even more meaningful.

To the Truedell community, I say congratulations.  You have contributed much to the journey.  Your generosity has touched the hearts of many Ugandans.  You have saved lives.  The "bucket" is overflowing.  From this day forward, you are connected to Kasana!  Truedell will always be remembered through the story book, the scrapbook and through the life saving nets.  You make me proud!

To Debra and Margot, I say thank you!  Your leadership was much appreciated and you both inspire me.  From the bottom of my heart I  thank you for giving me this opportunity to join you!  Buy-a-Net is changing the world, one village at a time.   What an honour for me to be a small part of it!

Saturday, February 25th: Last day!

On Saturday, the team reluctantly packed their bags.  Out flight didn't leave until 11:30 p.m. so we spent the day at a local resort where we paid to use the pool.  It was a relaxing end to a very intense and rewarding 17 days.  The view from the pool was extraordinary.  The region is comprised of hills.  At one time they talked about the "7 hills of Kampala".  Now that it has grown they say, "The 11 hills of Kampala".  It seems that the rich always reside at the top.

Remaining team members relax by the pool.

Water with a view.

View from on top:  Lake Victoria!

A storm approaches.  The rainy season begins in March but a few early rains came while we were here.  This one loomed dangerously but then blew over without depositing a drop locally.

Friday, February 25th, 2012: Shopping Day!

Two stalls at the Kampala Craft Market.

On Friday, the power was still out.  The remaining team members had a late breakfast and then went into Kampala to do some last minute gift shopping in preparation for our journey home.  We went to a craft market where local products are sold at very reasonable prices.  Many team members bought wooden sculptures and textile items.  I picked up a few things for home.  My husband will be sporting a very bright African shirt when he teaches math next fall and Adrian wore his new t-shirt to school today.

Thursday: Another Day Without Power

On Wednesday evening three of our team members left.  Alison Tallman left for Kingston.  She was anxious to get home to her family.  Debra and Sarah left on the same flight but they were heading to London, England via Amsterdam.  The balance of the group stayed on but for the most part our work was done.  On Thursday morning some members of the group elected to go back to the Wentz Clinic.  Erin, for example, did some nursing with the staff and spoke with the lab technologist.  I elected to stay behind to work on my blog as I was so far behind at this point.  Alas, this was a futile plan, due to a local power outage.  There had been a storm in Ggaba the day before which didn't affect us on Bethany Island.  This storm had apparently damaged the local transformer for the power was out throughout the entire village.  While waiting for the power to come back (which it didn't) I did some reading.  It was very relaxing and a much needed break.  I have no pictures to post from that day but the sun was bright and warm.  Life goes on in Uganda without power.  Our hotel had a generator but they only ran it for a few hours in the evening.  Gas is used to fuel stoves and many locals still cook outside over open fires.  Despite the lack of power the staff at the hotel made us many delicious meals of vegetables, fish, chicken and eggs with plenty of pineapple and watermelon for dessert.

Visit to Bethany Clinic: Vaccination Program

On Wednesday, February 23rd, the team took a boat to Bethany Island in Lake Victoria.  We visited the Bethany Clinic which is affiliated with the Wentz Clinic on the mainland.  There is also an orphanage and school on this picturesque island.  As we walked from the boat landing we passed pineapple and sweet potato fields, saw jack fruit growing, farm animals grazing and saw many, many children playing at recess.  After a short tour of the clinic we walked to a neighbouring fishing village for the immunization program of local infants.  Mothers lined up to have their baby weighed and to receive the free vaccinations.  Older children and adults gathered outside to watch the mzungus at work with the local nurses.

The team loads the boat for the 20 minute ride to Bethany Island.

Children around the world love recess!

These boys were playing off on their own.  Notice the cow grazing in the foreground.  Behind the boys there was a pineapple field.  Land has many uses in Uganda and many schools keep their own cows for milk, meat and money.

Our approach to the fishing village.

Sarah Lefebvre, Charlotte Bonella and Wayne White weigh the babies in preparation for the vaccination program

Debra administers polio vaccine to a baby.

Erin White administers a vaccination.  Yuck.... needles!

Sarah, always popular with the children.  A future teacher perhaps?

The children waiting for a Canada flag pin.  Mzungu naangay (phonetic spelling) means "Mzungu, give me one too!"

Tuesday Afternoon: Tour of Mulago Hospital

After lunch the two groups joined up for a tour of a local hospital.  This large teaching hospital, associated with Makerere University,  is the one which most locals are referred to for problems that cannot be dealt with at small local clinics.  The maternity ward alone services up to 100 deliveries per day and when we visited this ward we saw many waiting moms in various stages of labour.  My sister, an obstetrician can tell you that this visit made me somewhat squeamish.  I specialize in teaching and leave the medical stuff to her.  We had many nurses in our group, however, and this tour was streamlined for them.

The conditions at the hospital were far inferior to western standards and it certainly makes me more appreciative of the benefits of our health care system.  What struck me the most about the tour, which also included a cancer ward and a burn unit where we saw many burn victims, whom we had been told were suffering from deliberate acid burns, was the lack of sound.  Obviously many, many people were in pain but they suffered in silence.  One can only imagine what they were feeling and we were also told that in most cases they do not receive pain medication due to lack of funding for this.  Apparently, the government funding for health care is based on a model of $4 per day per person.  That doesn't go very far!

Mulago:  A teaching hospital in Kampala.

The team enters this busy teaching hospital for a guided tour.

Making Beads: Sustainable Employment Program for Women

On Tuesday, February 21st, the team split into two groups.  One group led by Sarah Komugisha, went back to Kawempe to monitor the net usage.  This involves going door to door in areas where nets were previously delivered to determine net usage, incidence of malaria, etc.  Another group, led by Debra Lefebrve, went back to the quarries to the WCCC to witness the bead making operation.  I joined this later group and was delighted to observe and document the bead making process.  Most of the women pictured below are single breadwinners for their families.  In most cases their husbands have died from aids and they too are HIV positive.  Buy-a-Net has recently formed a collaboration with this group and we now purchase beads and jewelry made from recycled paper directly from the group.

The process begins with the cutting of recycled paper.  Many women purchase the paper already cut but Buy-a-Net has now funded the purchase of a paper cutter for the group and this will help to increase their profits.  The announcement of this funding from Debra's group brought cheers from the ladies in attendance.  The paper is rolled around a small cylinder and then each bead is covered in lacquer and hung to dry.  Later, these beads are trimmed and made into beautiful necklaces, purses and other items.

Debra observes beads being made.

Women of many ages work to make beads to support their families.

I watched these beautiful yellow beads, reminiscent of the African sunshine, being made.

Beads are lacquered and hung to dry.

Trays of finished beads are then made into jewelry.

For Pat!

Also, on Monday we visited two other local Catholic Schools, the Kanjuki R/C Primary School and High School.  I met Emmanuel Mutebi, the head teacher at the Primary School and Barbara, the Principal of the High School.  We were invited into one of the senior high school classes.  I introduced myself, explained that both my husband and I are teachers and that my husband teaches high school math.  I asked the students to raise their hands if they liked math and that brought a lot of nervous laughter and hesitant hand raising.  Then I asked it they could raised them again for a picture, which I have included here.  I noticed that the second time around there were more hands in the air!

Kanjuki R/C High School in the Kayunga district of Uganda.

Hands are raised in response to the prompt, "Raise your hand if you like math!"

Nancy meets the Principal, Barbara.  She is travelling with a group to Toronto in May to attend a Catholic Teaching Conference.

Monday Afternoon: Net Distribution at Seat of Wisdom

On Monday, after leaving Kasana we had lunch at a local restaurant.  We were joined by Father Emmanuel and some of the Village Health Team leaders.  Next we drove to a local private Catholic Boarding School called, Seat of Wisdon.  Nets were distributed to all students.  These nets were purchased with fundraising dollars raised by Sarah Lefebvre, Debra's daughter.  Sarah lead a successful fundraiser at Regiopolis Notre Dame High School, in Kingston.  The receiving students were well organized and the delivery went quickly.  Following this second successful delivery we loaded the van for the long drive home.  Another great day!

Three team members, Alison Tallman, Sarah Lefebvre and Joanne Douglas wait to distribute nets to students.

Sarah addresses the audience of students to tell them about her fundraising efforts and the work of Buy-a-Net.

Students lined up to receive nets by year.  High school in Uganda starts with senior one (equivalent to our grade 8) and goes to senior 6 (which would be similar to our former grade 13).

The Seat of Wisdom students present a thank you sign to Sarah!

Kingston to Kasana.... A Caring Connection (more photos of Kasana)

The entire village turns out for the net distribution.

I present a scrapbook and story book to one of the village leaders.  The scrapbook highlights Truedell Public School and the fundraising efforts.  The story book is one that Truedell students enjoy and was donated  by our Parent Council.

Mrs. Grew hands a net to a young mother and child.

I hope this young fellow sleeps well under his net!

Monday in Kasana!

On Monday, February 20th the team drove to, Kasana, a rural village in the Kayunga district, which borders the river Nile.  Apparently it has a real mosquito problem and as such,  it was one of the villages chosen for net distribution.  It has been declared a "Truedell village" as the money raised by our school was directed towards net distribution here.  When we arrived the whole village was gathered to receive us.  As we exited the van we were greeted by cheering, applause, and throat singing by the locals.  It was quite a spectacle and very, very heartwarming.  The children were especially excited to see us and it seems that they were excused from school for the morning to be part of this important community event.  Everyone was dressed in their "Sunday best", especially the women, and I had a hard time taking it all in.  Before I knew it I was surrounded by children and Debra had to come and collect me for the ceremony.

Announcements were made, the team was introduced and I said a few words on behalf of our school.  Sarah translated for me and my few attempts at Luganda met with laughter and applause.  After this, Sarah conducted a short training session to ensure that all families knew how to use the nets, then we broke into groups to deliver them.  Names were called and people stepped forward one by one to receive a life saving net.  It was a magical morning and time went quickly.  While loading the van the children sang for us.  We met the headmaster of the school and many team members donated much need school supplies and soccer balls.  It was a wonderful experience for all and especially rewarding for me to see the delivery of the nets purchased with our fundraising dollars.  Students as you look at the pictures you can truly say, "I helped these people fight malaria.  I helped to save a life!"

The women greet us with throat singing! 

Debra delivers a life saving net.  

Alive and Well

Hi there!  To my frequent followers I send this message.  I am alive and well in Uganda despite the fact that I haven't posted anything since Tuesday.  You may have noticed that I was continuously running two days behind in my blogging.  That was largely due to busy days and unreliable internet service.  Well, things got worse.  We have been without power and internet service for almost three days and I expect to lose it again any minute.  I will post this quick without pictures to let you know things are fine, then I will go back to posting in sequential order.  I have some great things to share so cross your fingers that the service continues!

Sunday: Murchison Falls

The ferry took us back across to the south side of the park where we drove for 15 to 20 km to the site of the falls.  The power of moving water is amazing to witness and we were not disappointed here.  For $10 American or 5000 Ugandan shillings (price for Ugandans only) a guide will lead you on a short hike where you can view both sets of falls.  The falls on the right, from this vantage point, were the original falls, made by nature.  The falls on the left we formed in 1962 by flood waters which made the river reroute.  We were told it was named Freedom Falls as this was the year that Uganda declared its independence.   


Murchison Falls is located in the Victoria Nile, which flows across northern Uganda from Lake Victoria to the north end of Lake Albert in the western branch of the East African Rift Valley.  This amazing river eventually ends in Egypt, the same Nile which we hear so much about while studying Ancient Times.  At the top of Murchison Falls, the Nile forces its way through a gap in the rocks, 7 metres wide, and drops 43 metres, then flows westward into Lake Albert. The outlet of Lake Victoria sends around 300 cubic metres per second of water over the falls.  Murchison Falls was named after Sir Roderick Murchison, of the Royal Geographical Society and was also the site of a plane crash carrying Ernest Hemingway in 1954 .


After viewing the falls we had a delicious boxed lunch, enough to feed all of us, the guides and even the three park rangers!  We set out for Ggaba once again and believe it or not we had another flat tire on the way home.  Needless to say we were glad to see our hotel when we pulled in at 10:30 p.m.

Murchison Falls, Uganda

Sarah joined us on our safari.  It was her first and she enjoyed all of the views!

At this point the mist from the falls feels like a light shower.  Can you see the double rainbow?

Sunday, February 19th: Morning walking safari

Some of the brave hikers!

Our guide explains that this plant can be used to ease the pain of labour and delivery.

A hug for the world while we await our ferry!

On Sunday morning some of our team chose to sleep in while others opted for a short walking safari.  Our trail led us away from the lodge, up and over a few hills and then down to the Nile.  Along the way our guide described much of the flora and fauna.  She was very knowledgeable about plants and pointed out several which are used by the locals for home remedies.  We saw the hippos again and I have a wonderful video of them in which you can hear their vocalizations.  Thankfully we did not see any crocodiles!!!